It’s another 5km or so to BURGAU, a resort that still displays vestiges of its former fishing village life.
The cobbled main street retains some charm, running right through the village and tumbling down to a wide sweep of sand backed by crumbling cliffs and colourful fishing boats. In July and August the village is somewhat mobbed, but at other times it retains a distinct character, with locals grilling fish on tiny grills outside their homes. Note that not all the buses from Lagos and Sagres call into Burgau itself, though all pass the turn-off on the highway, from where it’s a two-kilometre walk to the village through arid farming country.
Burgau is well served with bars and restaurants, including the Beach Bar Burgau with a splendid terrace-bar (closed Mon & evenings Oct–April) and good, if pricey, food in the restaurant. Slightly less expensive, A Barraca, Largo dos Pescadores 2 (Tel 282 697 748), sits on the clifftop and does fine cataplanas, while above it, Bar Varanda on Largo dos Pescadores 4 (Tel 942 443 363) is a lively café-bar with an outdoor terrace, boppy music and English breakfasts.
Unless you’re here on a pre-booked holiday, you’ll find it tough to locate accommodation in summer, though signs scattered around the village advertise rooms in private houses. The best choice is Casa Grande (Tel 282 697 416, [email protected]; depending on size of room), at the top end of town on the road towards Luz, which is a characterful old manor run by Brits. Set in its own grounds, the rooms have soaring ceilings; you can also hire a barn sleeping six from e165. There’s also a fine restaurant attached, the Adega Casa Grande (evenings only, closed Nov) which serves veggie dishes and weekend pizza and pasta. Failing that, Hotel Praia do Burgau (Tel 282 690 160, [email protected]; , on a hillside to the east of town, is a friendly threestar place with a small pool. The top rooms with balconies have superb views (e10 extra).