East of the castle, the name of the church of São Vicente de Fora (Tues–Sat 9am–12 noon & 3–6pm; free) – “of the outside” – is a reminder of the extent of the sixteenth-century city walls.
Located where Afonso Henriques pitched camp during his siege and conquest of Lisbon, the church was built during the years of Spanish rule by Philip II’s Italian architect, Felipe Terzi, its severe geometric facade an important Renaissance innovation.
Through the cloisters, decorated with azulejos, you can visit the old monastic refectory, which since 1855 has formed the pantheon of the Bragança dynasty (Tues–Sun 10am– 6pm; e4). Here, in more or less complete sequence, are the bodies of all Portuguese kings from João IV, who restored the monarchy, to Manuel II, who lost it and died in exile in England in 1932. Among them is Catherine of Bragança, the widow of Charles II who is credited with introducing teatime to the Brits. You can enjoy tea and other beverages at the monastery café, which has a roof terrace commanding superb views over the Alfama and the Tagus